External wall removal and support

Adding an addition to your house to create an open plan living area.

The amazing Girder Truss

I’ve had many requests to write more on the topic of house construction after the first blog I did on load bearing walls and the two basic types of roof construction more commonly used. This blog is about existing roof support when you want to remove an existing external load bearing wall. If you haven’t already read my blog on load bearing walls it may be helpful as it explains the difference between roof trusses and framed roofs. It’s also worth noting that the girder truss also works for supporting older style pitched roofs.

These days it is very common to add onto the side of your house and create one large living area. This area could be a large family room or an entire kitchen / dining / living area. This design scenario requires a large part of the external wall to be removed and in this scenario I’m using here, the wall removed is 5.8m as the width of the addition is 6.0m overall the outside. The load from the 6.0m width of existing roof requiring support and the 5.8m span to support the wall removed is far too great for a solid beam to contend with.

It’s obvious to a lot of people that some kind of beam is required and this usually takes the form of a solid timber beam (for smaller spans), laminated timber beam (45mm deep strips of timber glued and pressed together in a factory) for longer spans, or sometimes a steel beam, or even a composite beam involving steel and timber such as a flitch beam, which is a length of thin steel usually between 6mm – 20mm wide sandwiched between two lengths of solid timber each around 45mm wide and up to 290mm deep.

All the above beams are heavy, ranging from about 13 kilogram per meter for a solid pine timber beam, to 45 kilograms per meter for a steel flitch beam and roughly 40 kilograms per meter for a steel channel. These weights all depend on the size required which is related to the length (span) and depth of the beam required.

[3D 1.]

I’ve prepared this 3D drawing above showing the typical way most people, including some Builders, Engineers, Architects and Architectural Designers and Council staff conceptualise supporting the existing roof (yellow trusses) when an existing external load bearing wall is removed. The blue walls and blue roof trusses represent a proposed new addition off the side of the original building (yellow), complete with polished wood flooring for effect.

From this, you can see with the section of external wall required to be removed, there is nothing to support the ends of the existing roof (yellow trusses). The most obvious solution is to install a beam in place of the missing wall and this is shown in orange.

The orange beam in almost all instances will be below the ceiling. In addition to the previously mentioned drawbacks to beams in this instance, is the beam interrupts the ceiling line and this creates problems with ventilation and acts as a visual division in rooms where you may wish to create a seamless feel to the space created by ate addition.

Beams are expensive especially when the span (length of the beam) goes over around 3.5 meters (the depth of the beam depends on the load carried by the beam and the span) and this is where the cost comes in. As an example, the building in the above [3D 1.] is the original building I used in the load bearing walls blog (yellow exterior walls, with green internal walls and yellow roof trusses). The width of this building is 6.0m with the length being truncated for convenience and space available in this blog. I’ve made the width of the proposed addition also 6.0m over all the outside walls and again the length is not important here. As I said previously, 3.5 meters is generally the maximum length a solid beam will span and this leaves only the laminated timber beam, steel flitch beam and or the steel channel as options, or are they?

Previous to writing this blog, I had a client with this exact situation and they insisted they needed a timber laminated beam. They had been told by a builder that this is what was needed and the timber beam made sense. I priced the timber laminated beam and the price was NZ$300.00 Dollars per meter, or $1800.00 for the entire 6.0m span. Steel flitch beams and steel channels while not priced at the time, would be more economical with the flitch beam probably being slightly cheaper of the 3 alternatives. The other problem with the laminated timber beam for this project was it would need to be around 450mm deep and this seriously divided the room as the underside of the beam was slightly lower than the top of a standard door.

I suggested to the client there was another way. I then proceeded to explain to them, my proposal which I had designed successfully many times before, and if I’m not mistaken, he fired me. This is what he said in an email to me, ‘If your not confident in designing our alteration I would be quite happy if you choose not to continue. That comment, I wasn’t expecting after40 years designing residential homes and additions, clearly he was convinced by the builder a beam was the only way to support this situation. I was debating weather or not to take him up on his offer, when I thought, no, I need to explain to him how girder trusses work as an alternative to a beam. After creating and sending my client a 3D image of his proposed alteration (similar to 3D.1 above) showing a girder truss fully supporting his existing roof, and backed up by my Engineer, I received a second email which read; “Thank you for the 3D image and full explanation of the girder truss system. This is why we hire experts”. Well, I was hired again which was a good thing… I think. I had few more surprises waiting for my client in the truss department which I will cover in another blog. My point is, people tend to believe builders as after all they are the people who build things. Unfortunately, their not always up with cutting edge technology. and in this instance the builder was about 40 years behind.

The Girder truss.

The girder truss is really not a lot different to a standard truss as shown in the previous 3D [3D 1.] (yellow trusses and blue roof trusses), but, they are a lot stronger due to a modified web layout (webs are the internal struts that look like the letter “W” or an “M’).

Firstly, let me explain where I get my information. Trusses first became popular in 1960’s New Zealand as an alternative to pitched roofs (refer my blog – Removing walls from your house – what to look for). The system or at least one of the systems were provided by a company called Gang-Nail New Zealand, another was Pryda New Zealand. These Companies did not invent the system, the Greeks did during the Bronze age around 2500 b.c.

Kapellbrucke Bridge Lucerne Switzerland built 1365

Trusses are not only found in residential roofs but also bridges. The kapellbrucke bridge above is the worlds oldest surviving trussed bridge.

William Howe patented the Howe truss in 1840 (you can see the trusses I’ve used in my 3D drawing [3D 1.] are Howe trusses. A. Carol Sandford of Pompano Beach, Florida invented the metal truss plate called Gri P late in 1952. Gang-Nail New Zealand call their plates “Gang-Nail plates. There are many more instances of truss inventions and componentry on the web.

Truss manufacturer mid 20th Century

I developed my knowledge of trusses back in 1976 where I was working for a timber Company specialising in Pre-cut and Pre-Nail timber frames as well as trusses. I then went back into Architectural Design, (previously I had been involved in high-rise buildings for one of the largest Architectural firms in the Southern hemisphere), starting my own Architectural Design Company and fully utilising the truss system in residential applications. My roof designs were always designed using trigonometry and backed by the Gang-Nail New Zealand’s design manual. Girder trusses were mainly for supporting hip end trusses (I will create a blog on hip end trusses at a later date) and I saw an opportunity to use them to hold up existing roofs instead of using beams.

Gang-Nail truss manual.

I’ve used this manual for over 40 years. The manual provides charts for all the different truss types including girders. N.Z. Council’s now insist on a specialist truss designer to provide truss designs. This Truss Manual is no longer available.

We have finally reached the point where you can see how this all comes together. Below is a 3D drawing [3D 2.] which shows the same 3D [3D 1.] but without the beam. In it’s place is a girder truss, coloured orange.

[3D 2.]

The first thing to take note of is the orange girder is completely above the ceiling line unlike the beam which hangs below the ceiling line. The girder has a different web layout to the other trusses and the bottom member (The lower horizontal part of the truss at ceiling level otherwise known as the bottom chord), is vertically deeper than the other trusses.

The existing trusses (yellow) have the overhangs removed to allow the orange girder truss to be placed hard against the outer edge of the existing exterior wall. The orange girder truss is then fixed to the ends of the existing yellow trusses with pre-made folded metal plates screwed to the girder truss. The plate incorporates a shoe and this supports the existing yellow truss. The girder truss is then fixed down to the top of the new wall (blue).

Joist Hanger connecting existing trusses to a new Girder Truss

The amount of material in a girder truss is minimal, the timber is around 0.2 of a cubic meter, the equivalent of around 40 meters of 100 x 50 Pine or Douglas fir framing timber and around 22 nail plates holding the parts of the girder truss together. Nail plates are metal plates with teeth or spikes every 10mm or so and these are pressed over the timber joints to make up the truss. A girder truss spanning 6.0 meters as the one in [3D 2.] weighs around 60 kilograms or 12 kilograms per meter (slightly less than the solid beam) and can be easily handled by two people. The cost is a fraction of the cost of a laminated beam at about 20% of the laminated beam cost. For larger spans and or larger loads from the existing roof there are stronger girder truss designs as well as they can be doubled up by nailing two together.

The girder truss really is a win / win situation; they are light, easily handled and cost efficient. The also double as a roof truss performing both functions (support and roof framing) and in my Architectural design career I have used these hundreds of times without failure. The girder trusses are made at the same time in the factory as the main trusses and brought to the site together with the roof trusses.

Girder trusses are the unsung hero of roofing. They can even support other girder trusses sometimes girder trusses that support other girder trusses creating very complicated roof layouts. They are the main component in hip roofs sometime supporting 40 or more square meters of roof without fail. Another type of truss is a cantilever truss and these trusses can create covered outdoor spaces off the main roof without support posts. There are trusses that can create attic spaces as well as coved ceilings (coved ceilings are where the outer edges of the ceiling slopes up and then goes flat). Then there are scissor trusses which don’t cut anything but they create a sloping ceiling without the need for ridge beams (the beam often seen in the upper middle of the ceiling where the ceiling slopes away on both sides).

One last little know truss is a saddle truss, and I’m mentioning this as there are two in both [3D 1.] and [3D 2.]. Saddle trusses are used to form the space between the existing roof (yellow) and the new girder truss (orange), I’ve shown these trusses as light blue. The saddle truss is named from the fact that it sit on or saddles the existing roof structure be it a trusses roof or pitched roof. These trusses are simple and cheap and save a of of construction time otherwise spent filling in this space with pieces of timber and small ridge beams.

Hopefully this helps everyone to see the versatility of the timber truss system including build professionals. I can say building professionals as I once went to a Gang-Nail truss seminar, paid for by a structural Engineer who did structural work for me. Even with a masters degree in structural Engineering he struggled with the truss concept and he would come to me for advice on this topic. At the Gang-Nail seminar which went from 9am until around 3pm there were Architects, Architectural Designers, Auckland Council building inspectors, Builders and other Structural Engineers. The people at Gang-Nail initiated the seminar by explaining every aspect of the Gang-Nail manual (the blue manual shown above). In the afternoon there was a segment that involved attendees using the manual to identify the correct truss for a given situation. This is going to sound ridiculous, but it is true. For around 30 minutes we were given various roofing configurations, with five or so minutes to find the correct truss in the blue manual for each scenario. We were then collectively asked what truss to use. I was the only person out of around 30 to 40 attendees who got it right mainly because I was the only person prepared to answer! It would appear I was also helping to avoid an otherwise painful few minutes of silence for the other attendees.

I always felt that part of the reason for this dismal performance by a wide cross section of building professionals was the lack of early training or at least out dated training. Part of my employment with the Architects I mentioned earlier was I had to attend Architectural school, now known in New Zealand as UNITEC. As I said earlier, I was involved at a young age in the design office that designed and administered high rise buildings or some would call these sky scrapers. Below is the first building I worked on which is situated at No. 1 Queen Street, on the Auckland waterfront.

1 Queen Street, Auckland Waterfront. New Zealand.

This building was cutting edge in 1970. You can imagine how I felt when one day I would be on site watching columns being poured into steel casings bolted together and the next day I would be at school being taught that pouring concrete columns required timber boxing and timber yokes (clamps) fastened around the timber at intervals. My point is, schooling can be behind the times and still is from what I’ve heard. Clearly no one teaching building or Architecture has been updated on trussed roofs which is apparent from what I experienced at the Gan-Nail Truss seminar.

I worked at the Architects previously mentioned with someone who became the head of the building department of one of these training centers. Years later I had a conversation with a building Forman who complained about the antiquated methods being taught by these centers. He mentioned the person teaching (what he called garbage) by name and it was this person I had worked with at the Architects. I’m sure it was more the institution rather than the individual but my point is they are out of date or aren’t aware of new technology.

After learning about trusses working outside of Architecture, naturally I took this information with me into my Architectural practice. I found that designing the roof without assistance (the timber company I worked for had access to the brilliant people at the likes of Gang-Nail and Pryda), I had to work very hard to understand the system. I studied the blue book and was lost at times but I personally needed to turn out a product that I knew would work and was correct. I had developed the ability to design trussed roofs over several years. I was honestly shocked at what I had experienced at the Gang-Nail seminar. Sometimes learning is exhausting and the frustration felt when you don’t understand can be painful. In my opinion a lot of these people are lazy. It’s ironic that I hold the highest Design License available yet I am no longer allowed to design my own trussed roof system according to Councils. I now have to pay a truss designer to do this for me, and he/she provides Council with a design statement. This has slowed down my process and cost my client’s more money, why, because no one in the industry wanted to update, or learn about modern building systems and go through the pain of learning a truly amazing roofing system especially the Council.

Moving on, I have to thank everyone who have taken the time to write the most amazing comments on my web site. I have to say, your enthusiasm for my blogs and kind words were pivotal in producing this blog. I’m absolutely over the moon that I have been able to enlighten non building public on some aspects that I know even a lot of building professionals don’t understand. Strangely enough I don’t seem to get any comments from Building Professionals. This is the first building blog since I first uploaded my building blogs three and a half years ago, and I mentioned in the blog previously why this was so. Even a simple blog like this takes a lot of work and I had intended to include a small video but I just ran out of time, maybe next time. I hope you enjoy this blog as much as the previous ones and I actually have another one waiting in the wings for some text.

I thought some of you might like to see my virtual office I created as it shows off some of the work I’ve done. Plus I like shiny reflections and my real office is a jumble of computers, survey equipment, books and a 1.2 meter by 0.8 meter Model house I built for a client.

Virtual office – Architecture intouch

Cheers, Ross.

Ross Newby Architectural Designer, Licensed LBP (Design 3). email ross.newby@ait.kiwi.nz All rights reserved. 3D images created by Ross Newby. Photos curtesy of Google – Ross Newby

Architecture in touch

Architecture intouch

Architecture intouch is an Auckland based Architectural design studio and has been in the business of Architectural Design, Building consent Plans and resource consents for new homes, alterations and extension to homes for a long time and we certainly no our way around the building industry.

We are licensed by the Ministry of Business Innovation and Employment (MBiE) who look after the Licensed Building Practitioners scheme.  We hold a Design 3 License and this license is the only license that is on par with a registered Architect.

One of our strong points is we are as skilled in structural aspects of building as much as we are in design.  As well as structure and design we are also well versed with the building act – New Zealand standards and the N.Z. building code which are crucial to a smooth building process.

When it comes to practical designing you won’t find anyone better due to many years spent in the pre-cut housing industry where our skills were sought after for very complex builds.  Even builders would come to us to solve there roofing problems.

The quality we are most proud of is our dedication to our clients during the design process where we also handle the consent process through to the issue of the consent and in the form of post consent service.  We are ready and willing to act exclusively for our clients in the event there is a misunderstanding with builders or any other organizations involved with the build process.  We will if requested check and enforce where necessary that the construction is being performed in accordance with the design and the regulations and quality.  As one of our early clients wrote in there reference to us, we are very client focused.  Also important to us is to advise and help our clients with their obligations under the building act.

We are a very small organization and we only do a small number of projects each year which allows us to give our full attention to our clients and their projects.   Ross Newby is the driving force behind Architecture intouch and he is always available to have a chat at no cost regarding your building project and is always willing to answer questions.

If you have any questions be it on a project you have already started or you wish to enquire about your up and coming project you can contact Ross by using the formats below.

Mob           021 308869

Email         ross.newby@ait.kiwi.nz

Web           www.ait.kiwi.nz

Architecture intouch Architectural Designers Auckland.

Ross Newby Architectural Designer – Design 3 LBP

Your new home build has become a dispute – what went wrong

If your not happy with the outcome of you new home and the building company is not responsive or Lawyers are involved, what went wrong.

In our opinion it all starts right from the point where you started looking to a building company to provide you with everything from design to completion while your input was minimal. The glossy brochures are nice, the floor plans look great and best of all you know what it will cost or at least you think you do.
Lets face it, hiring an Architect or an Architectural designer is complicated. You have to explain what you want – wait for designs to be completed and then altered and then the frustrating wait while consent drawings are prepared and even then you have no idea if you can afford the design. You have to give your time!
Building company plans are cheap and there already drawn. So why wouldn’t you use a building company. Well here’s a thought;

You have no one between you and the building company to independently monitor and advise you regarding the build quality and the building company has all the financial clout while your clout has been paid to the building company every step of the way.
Using the right designer changes the balance in your favor as the Designer can with hold payment or even fire the building company assuming you have given the Designer the power to do so and assuming this has been set up in your contract.
This is how it was done previous to the 90’s.  I have done many houses for clients where an independent builder was selected to do the build and things went wrong during the build.  I have dealt with braces not positioned correctly – leaking house retaining walls and even an upper floor built completely incorrectly plus and entire roof incorrectly erected on a 300m² house.  All these issues were sorted to the owners satisfaction more or less immediately.

So why can’t these owners with issues with design and build companies get any traction when things are clearly wrong and even the Council agree with the owner.  Because there is no one between the owner and the design build company.   

It’s time that owners realised they are on their own with this type of setup and while it’s all smiles – coffee and biscuits when signing up, it will soon turn into a legal power play should build quality wane or you didn’t get the bathroom you requested.

Not only can you get a bespoke design from a Designer you can also get early costings at the preliminary design stage.  Reputable Designers will handle the building consent process for you as well as any Council issues that may crop up during the build.   You will have an ally throughout the building process who is responsible for any issues to do with plan interpretation  and that your home is built according to the plans.  But the big plus is a Designer should be your go to person if you are having problems with your building company and have the power to put a stop on the work.  This is what makes the building company come to the part very quickly to resolve any issue.

Note: not all Designers provide this service and you must ask them if they can provide this for you before you proceed or that they can appoint someone suitably qualified to do this on their behalf.

Ross Newby Architectural Designer – LBP Design 3.

Email: ross.newby@ait.kiwi.nz

 

Removing walls from your house – what to look for.

A question that comes up over and over is, can I remove a wall in my house?

The New Zealand Building Act 2004 Schedule 1 allows existing walls to be removed without a building consent but there are around 5 exclusions.  These include but are not limited to load bearing walls and wall bracing.  Before attempting any work of this nature, building owners should hire a professional.

This is an overview on how residential roof structures disperse loads and the answer to this question varies depending on what type of construction has been employed when your house was built.  We are only going to cover two types of house construction and these are the most common in New Zealand for roofing structures.   The walls and foundations are demonstrated here as timber but other types are similar as the forces still track more or less the same.  It is important to note that a weather board house and a brick veneer house are both timber frame construction and are not to be confused with solid brick or block.

The two common types are; trusses and pitched.  Trusses are generally for residential, timber and produced in a factory using presses, while pitched roofs are built on site from individual pieces of timber cut and nailed in place.

If your house is pre 1950 it will most likely be a pitched roof system, while if it is post 1950 it could be a trussed system with trusses being widely used from the late 1960 on.

We will start with the trussed roof system as these are much more simplistic in there concept although the trussed system can be very complex and more flexible than a lot of people (even some builders) realise.  The main thing to understand with trusses is they will span the entire width of a house without requiring any internal support.  The distance trusses can span is easily 12 meters and for specific designs more than this although spans greater than 12 meters would be outside the scope of the New Zealand Timber Code requiring a structural Engineer to provide structural evidence to Council for the house design .

The trussed system

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This drawing shows a trussed roof applied to a simple house.  The trusses are shown in yellow as they are taking load from the roofing material as well as the load from people required for maintenance.  The walls taking the load from the trusses are also shown in yellow as are the foundations and footings.  The walls that show up in this drawing are basically the exterior walls of the building.  It is important to note that while trusses normally transfer all the loads to the exterior walls there can be times when an internal wall may be used to support a truss such as a half truss which only covers part of the building width.  You can identify trusses in your roof construction as they all have some form of strut system as shown in the above drawing (in this case the struts looks like the letter double u) there are other configurations.  Trusses also have labels attached to them.

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This diagram shows the the walls without the trussed roof and you can see that all the interior walls shown in green are non load bearing as discussed above.  The trussed roof system is not only more efficient than a pitched roof, it also allows for interior walls to be arranged in any layout without having to worry about supporting the ceiling as the trusses also carry the ceiling loads.  It would be possible to design a trussed roof residential building without any interior walls if it it wasn’t for the necessity of wall bracing.

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Foundation to buildings with trussed roofs are also simplified.  From this foundation drawing it can be seen that the sub-floor layout is very simple and again the loads carrying the roof loads (shown in yellow) are only on the outer rows of piles.  The internal rows are carrying floor loads only.

Pitched roof system

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The pitched system shown here is as we said, built on site from cut timbers and nailed together piece by piece.  Instantly you can see that this system is much more complex and requires a lot of timber struts to transfer the roof loads down on to beams in the ceiling known as ceiling runners.  Ceiling runners used to be called strong backs in the early days.  These ceiling runners then span between internal load bearing walls which run across the building.  Walls running length wise can also and often are load bearing as they take the loads from struts that can come from the ridge board at the very top of the roof as well as sometimes struts coming from the rafters at the mid point which then slope towards the middle of the ceiling where they are fixed to a plate directly over a longitudinal wall near the center of the building.  Ceiling joists (which hold up the ceiling lining usually require ceiling runners as well.  In this drawing the ceiling joists are supported by the ceiling runner that also supports the struts from the rafters.  The usual give away of a pitched roof is when you look into the roof space you see pieces of timber going in all directions and often no one roof space will look the same, as each builder will have his own way of constructing this type of roof.

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This drawing shows the walls of the same house as the trussed roof system but clearly indicates the limitations of the pitched roof system.  All the walls except one (shown in green) are to some degree or another load bearing.  I say one degree or another because the longitudinal internal walls (as per the long exterior walls) carry a constant load from the roof along it’s length while the short interior walls running across the building may only have a post or double stud inside them to take the load from the ceiling runner above.  What this means is part of these interior walls could be removed but not all of the wall while the longitudinal walls almost always require a beam to replace that part of the wall that has been removed.

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The sub floor and foundations for the pitched roof also gives away that your interior wall is load bearing as it will either have additional or double joists directly below the wall or an entire row of piles dedicated to the wall (usually a longitudinal interior wall)  also you may sometimes find an isolated pile that looks out of place to the rows of other piles and this most certainly will be carrying some form of load from above.  You can see in this drawing that there is a dedicated row of piles (in yellow) running roughly on center and this row is taking the load from the longitudinal interior wall directly above it and down the center.  In addition to the dedicated row of piles you can see some special joists (coloured yellow) and these are positioned directly under the interior walls that run across the building and are picking up the loads coming down through these walls via posts in the wall and ultimately from the ceiling runners which in turn carry loads from the roof rafters.

In summary

Deciding which walls are load bearing and which aren’t can be a little daunting and I’ve even heard of professional wondering around banging walls and announcing if a wall is load bearing or not, but if you don’t look up in the ceiling space and identify what type of construction is up there (truss or pitched) then it is nothing more than a guess and it could be a very expensive guess.  Before you do any demolition, identify the load bearing walls properly.

When it comes to removing walls, any interior wall can be removed and you don’t always have to have a beam below the ceiling. New beams can be installed above the ceiling and in some cases reasonably easily.  This method always looks great and gives you home that professional look where it looks like it had been built that way.  You will require a building consent to remove or alter load bearing walls.

The other method which can be used in some instances is using a truss to hold up the original roof especially when adding onto the side of an existing house.  A girder truss can be used to support an existing roof whether  the original roof is trussed or pitched.  This is the method I used for the alterations to the Lockwood house at Bombay and you can see how this is done if you check out my web page www.ait.kiwi.nz  “current work”.

I hope this helps those people who are not in the industry but would like to understand the mysteries that lurks above their heads and give these people a little more confidence with this issue that even some professionals (builders included) argue over.

Ross Newby Architectural Designer – Design 3 LBP.

Email: ross.newby@ait.kiwi.nz

Building Contracts – Prime Cost Sum (PC sum)

One of the over looked items in your building contract could be the Prime Cost Sum (PC Sum) or (PC) also known as a provisional sum and it could cost you a lot of money by the end of the contract.  PC Sums are also a very good way for less than honest builders to manipulate their quotes so that they look as if their price is less than prices submitted by other builders.

Understanding the PC sum is crucial to your finances and it’s not that hard to understand or see how it can be manipulated by the less than honest builders.

Here I will show you how this works and what to look for.                                         The PC sum is simply a sum of money in your contract that is set aside for items in your build that have not yet been fully established.  Put another way this is a provision to allow for the cost of an item without actually having decided on the item or knowing the cost of it, (provisional sum).

The reason a PC Sum exists is; you may not have decided on say the kitchen fittings and or cabinetry and both these items can vary wildly.  A good example is the bench top.  This could be laminate on mdf board or granite.  Your architectural plans probably show the kitchen layout (benches, hot plates, fridge etc.) but have not specifically specified the materials or the appliances and this could be because you decided to sort this out at a later date or you didn’t want to pay more for your consent plans to have these items drawn and specified or this service simply was not available to you.  This is where the builder will enter a PC Sum for the kitchen and in all fairness to builders this amount may be based on a previous kitchen they have installed or an educated guess which is reasonable.

The most important part to remember about PC Sums is that this is the amount you agree to be liable for in the contract price and if the items tagged under PC sum in your contract go over this amount then you will have to pay the builder the difference.  Conversely, if you go under the PC, the builder will need to credit you the difference off the contract price and this means you will pay the builder less at the end of the contract everything else being equal.

You have to understand how much your PC sum is and what it is for.  At the end of the contract you need to have the accounts available for the  items you requested so this can be worked out and amounts added or subtracted from the contract.  While it is important that you the owner has this information, Architecture intouch believe it is up to the builder to prove the over or under spending by presenting the invoices clearly to you and compariing this against the PC sum in your contract.  We also believe the owner should request clear and concise invoices or costings for items covered by a PC sum during the contract.

Now the part where PC sums can be manipulated.                                                             This is very easy for a less than honest builder to do and as they say “the Devil is in the small print”.  If you have items in your builders contract that come under a PC sum where the builder has put a Dollar value on without consulting you or even if they have consulted you and you don’t know how much this should be, then this is where the builder can manipulate his pricing to be more competitive and then claw it back at the end of the build.

The way this is done is, the builder first creates a PC sum out of an item or multiple items that may not fully be quantifiable but certainly can be  estimated within reason.  A good example is drainage as I have a first hand account of this situation happening to a client although it was after the fact and the example below should explain in detail how the scam is achieved.

Drawings were prepared for a new house and consent drawings submitted to Council which included drainage plans as required by Council’s check list. Council approved the drawing and a consent was issued (I should point out here that architectural drainage plans can only be submitted as one option which is usually the most logical and that it can be the case that a drain layer may want to do it another way for various reasons such as ground slope or obstructions). Prices for the new house were obtained from three builders and one of the builders priced around $20,000 (about the price of a new car) under the other two and the client gave this builder the job  As it turned out the builder had included the drainage in the PC Sum which may be reasonable due to the nature of drainage and ground but the amount he had included was around $1000 Dollars for a drain that was later estimated from the architectural plans at the then current per lineal meter rates as being $20,000.  At the end of the job the builder presented the owners with an extra for $20,000 (this would be around $50,000 now).  The reason the builder gave to the owners was that the drainage plan in the consent drawings were drawn wrong and there was a lot more drainage required than shown on the plans.  Understandably the owners were upset and angry and approached me for an explanation.

Clearly there was something wrong as a quick measure of the architectural plans submitted showed there was so many meters of drainage required and multiplying this out by the rate per meter for drainage at the time showed the PC sum should have been $20,000.  The fact that $20,000 kept coming up rang some reasonably large bells and I was aware that the drainage contractor was required to submit an as built drainage plan to the Council and I promptly applied for this and compared the architectural plans with the as built plan and guess what, they were identical. The owners realised they had been tricked by the builder using the PC sum to hide his real cost in his quote.  I didn’t find out what the outcome was from the owners except I remember they passed my name on to a friend saying they wouldn’t find a better person than Ross Newby and this culminated in another commission for me.

Hopefully this has helped in your understanding of PC sums and what to watch out for.  Clearly PC sums should be based on some form of reality such as simply measuring off the drawing and putting a reasonable Dollar number on the measure as shown above.  The other way to go about this is to have a registered quantity surveyor (Q.S.) measure you drawings.  A registered Q.S. will stand by you in these types of instances and usually what he or she says in Court is taken as absolute.  A quantity survey is really a construction accountant who prices building quantities including labour costs.  Compared to the cost of the project, a Q.S. is usually very reasonable.

 

Ross Newby Architectural Designer – Design 3 LBP.

Eamil:ross.newby@ait.kiwi.nz

 

Building Owners and the Building Act

 

As the title suggests, this is about building owner’s responsibilities under the New Zealand Building Act which sets out building owner’s responsibilities and various fines building owners can face.  No one likes paying fines especially when we were not aware of any requirements placed on us.  Here I try to help home owners understand what their liabilities are so they can avoid penalties which can sometimes come out of the blue.

As an Architectural Designer I am aware of these requirements but I’m not a trained lawyer.  Building owners should take this information I have provided as a prompt only and do there own research, starting with their local Council.

The Building Act 

The purpose of the Building Act is to regulate building work and set out performance standards.  It aims to ensure building can be:

  • Used safely.
  • Contribute to occupants well being.
  • Promote safety in the event of fire.
  • Create sustainable development.

The Building Code

The New Zealand Building Code (NZBC)  is a performance based code and made up of around 30 sections plus some New Zealand Standards are also  considered to be included as these sections.

In addition to the NZBC, there are many New Zealand building standards NZS 3604 Timber Framed Buildings, being the most recognized.

All building work has to comply with these codes and standards even building work contained in schedule 1 of the New Zealand Building Act (NZBA) which is exempt from requiring a building consent.  A lot of building owners are jumping at the chance to use schedule 1, but they need to do there homework.  I was recently involved in an addition which had a deck that clearly came under schedule 1.  On further investigation the placement of the deck was on top of a 300mm diameter storm water pipe as well as being in an overland flow path.  There was no way that this deck could be built under schedule 1 and not violate other requirements.  The footings that fell within a metre of the pipe had to be engineered and ended up 3.0 metres deep (a metre deeper than the drain as per Council requirements).  Where it was not possible to avoid the drain, no less than 7 beams had to be engineered to cantilever over the pipe.  On top of this Council insisted the drain be located and videoed internally and a consent obtained from Watercare.  Plus Council drainage Engineers wanted a report on the effects of a potential flood.  If it wasn’t for Ait’s diligence this deck would have been illegal and at worst could have punctured the drain during the build.  There are many traps with schedule 1 and the fact that town planning rules still have to be adhered to is a major trap that could make your schedule 1 building work illegal.

Owner’s Responsibilities

The NZBA clearly sets out the building owners responsibilities and you may be surprised.  Following is a list of requirements I am aware of:

  • Obtain a building consent.  This is not the roll of the Builder or the Designer although they may take on this roll for the owner.  Unfortunately if the builder or the Designer or anyone else for that matter fails to obtain the building consent for the work that is done it is the owner’s responsibility and he or she is liable for any ramifications (at least initially from Council).
  • Obtain Code Compliance Certificate (CCC).  Again this can be done by anyone but is the building owner who is responsible to see that it has actually been obtained.
  • Notify Council of the names and license numbers of LBP’s working on their project.  Make sure who ever is doing this work for you has actually done this.
  • Comply with conditions of a Compliance Certificate.  This is normally for commercial property.
  • Ensure systems such as fire alarms under the certificate are working properly and that the certificate is available for inspection by Council, again this is for commercial buildings normally.
  • The building owner must supply a building warrant of fitness to Council, again commercial use normally.
  • The building owner must give Council compliance reports on compliance schedules, commercial normally.
  • Owners must give Council notice of change of use.  Using a garage as accommodation would warrant notifying Council of a change of use.  Failure to do this can and has ended up with building owners taking hefty fines.
  • Not alter the change of use of their building.  For instance from residential occupation to another type of occupation such as a boarding house for example.
  • Not extend a building past it’s specified intended life.
  • Finally owners’s must comply with the Resource Management Act.

It is highly recommended that any work you intend to undertake as a building owner or you allow someone else to undertake, you contact council and discuss openly and honestly with Council your intentions and don’t feel bad about requesting Council giving you there advise to you in writing.  I have had clients that have been given incorrect information from a Council help desk probably because the client didn’t explain to Council exactly the circumstances surrounding their situation.

Hopefully I have helped you as a home owner understand that building work is not all straight forward and that personally contacting the right people at their local Council could just save you from ending up in court or having to pay out for a Certificate of Acceptance or worse a fine.  I suggest building owners do their own due diligence by contacting their local Council or at least have a professional advise them before doing any schedule 1 building work.  Alternatively just get a building consent regardless.

Ross Newby Architectural Designer Design 3 LBP.

Email: ross.newby@ait.kiwi.nz

 

Design and Building Information

Owner’s who receive a letter from Council regarding illegal building work and informing them of a $200,000 Dollar fine if not contacted before a certain date, need to take a deep breath and call our number as we can help.

Unfortunately there is usually a cost involved in getting this sorted out and I don’t know of anyone who prepares for this situation except one very diligent client I had in Blockhouse Bay who said he wanted all his ducks to be in a row with regard to the legality of his property .

Getting this notice needs to be taken seriously as home owners have been fined varying amounts (this can be verified on the MBIE website http://www.mbie.govt.nz.  Council are usually reasonably helpful once they know you are taking them seriously and you have organised a Designer or other professional to provide the necessary information to obtain a Certificate of Acceptance (CoA).  The work usually involves architectural drawings and an application for a CoA plus the Council application fee.  The cost of the architectural work varies depending on the size of the building, the amount of illegal building work and whether existing plans are available.  Other factors are; there may be a  requirement for other professionals such as a structural Engineer or a fire Engineer.

If you need help with this, then give Ait a call.  We have done several of these applications now and not one has been denied.  In fact one client came out the other end with everything he thought was illegal, now legal, including the illegal work he had done.  If you go to our face book page https://web.facebook.com/architectureintouch/?_rdc=1&_rdr , you can see an example of the type of work required.  This is particularly important for re-sale of your property as often you can loose a lot of money selling a home that has illegal building work.

Ross Newby Architectural Designer Licensed Building Practitioner.

Email: ross.newby@ait.kiwi.nz